Finals female youth B lead
The weather was damp this morning for the first Lead final of these World Youth Championships, the Youth B – Under 16 category. But these 8 magnificent finalists certainly weren’t going to be put off by so little. Neither the spectators: a sea of umbrellas filled the Climbing Stadium. And they were off. Russia’s Viktoriia Meshkova got the ball rolling up the lefthand wall. There was anticipation in the air, but also tension. The Russian (8th in the Semis) started well, climbed halfway up the route. Croatia’s Jani Zoraj fell after just 3 holds. While Russia’s Elena Krasovskaia pushed higher, gaining an additional 3 holds. Too little. The top was still a long way off… In the meantime the sun had evaporated yesterday’s rain and the Climbing Stadium now shone brightly. Russia’s Eliska Adamovska climbed next but it wasn’t her day, she fell just below Zoraj. Yes, this route didn’t anything away, each hold had to be fought for, one after the next. America’s Brooke Raboutou, daughter of two of Rock Master’s greats, ace French climber Didier and America’s Robyn Erbesfield,climbed just over half the route, past the four blue pyramid volumes and even past their red ”twins”. The following black hold seemed a sloper, difficult to stick… and this is where she fell. This appeared to be the last filter that opened the gates to the upper section of route, and it is here that excellent Italian Laura Rogora fell, too. Slovenia’s Mia Krampl (second to last athlete to compete) fared somewhat better and crimped another couple of holds. But she fell in the middle of the overhang, a long way from the top. Just one athlete was left to climb. Young American Ashima Shiraishi. Until now she had dominated the Boulder (to win the Bouldering World Championship) by sending all 12 boulder problems. And until now she had also dominated the lead, by climbing all the routes set so far. The only one to do so. So when Ashima took the stage it seemed a completely different story: she climbed upwards, regular and strong, unstoppable. Only for a moment did she stop and rest at the “small blue pirates”, then she continued. She stuck the big black sloper (with disarming ease) and then… that was it. Her waltz to the top looked like a mere formality. So just a few days having won the Boulder title, Ashima Shiraishi now also won the Lead World Championship. Yes, Ashima really is in a league of her own, a champion. Like this sport has rarely seen before. Slovenia’s Mia Krampl won silver, Italy’s Laura Rogora bronze.
Final male youth B lead
When Pietro Biagini took the stage the rain was long gone. Japan’s Katsura Konishi, Spain’sMikel Asier Linacisoro Molina and the French duo Léo Ferrera and Pierre Le Cerf had all climbed already. All (apart from Le Cerf) had all managed to reach the start of the large roof on the right. Ferrera had been the best of this group. But Biagini made it clear he meant business: he clearly didn’t want to give up easily on this route which evidently was demanding right from the outset. The Italian was so resolute that he climbed a few holds higher that the Frenchman to take provisional lead. But then it was time for his teammate, Filip Schenk, provisional third after the Semis and recently crowned Youth B Boudler World Champion. Schenk climbed well, past Spaniard Linacisoro Molina but then fell just before Ferrera. Today’s route was one of those that “sucked” away all the energy, a hallmark of this ultra-overhanging (and devastating) Rock Master wall. The third Frenchman Sam Avezou (2nd after the Semis) suddenly shifted down a gear and, slowly but surely, climbed past everyone, including Pietro Biagini. This was to be his day because he made important headway, to within the large roof, close to the lip. Belgium’s Harold Peeters, the best in the Semis, had the honor of finishing off the competition. But his efforts were to no avail, his battle to bitter end below the roof ended two holds beneath Sam Avezou, the new Lead Youth B – Under 16 World Champion. Belgium’s Harold Peeters finished second, while Italy’s Pietro Biagini placed a deserved third.
by Vinicio Stefanello / Planetmountain.com