The French-Italian Oriane Bertone showed a clear superiority today at the World Youth Championships of sport climbing in Arco (Trentino) winning her second competition after the gold medal in the lead race. Today she became Bouldering World Champion among the Youth B (under 16) without even having to complete the last ‘trick’ of the tracers.
The French athlete, who showed a dazzling smile after having comfortably completed two routes and having demonstrated all her value, took the path towards the title from an early age, when she learned to climb on the basalt walls of La Réunion, a remote island in the Indian Ocean where evidently… champions are born: “I never expected to become world champion both in lead and in boulder – said Oriane. – Today the bouldering route was very hard. After seeing it in the pre-race, I thought it was easier than in the semi-finals but I was wrong, I was surprised. Now I’m going back to my small island on the other side of the world and I’m going to continue training for next year and for the European Youth Boulder Championships in Brixen (19th-22nd September), where there will be a lot of good athletes”. Second place for the Japanese Ryu Nakagawa, able to climb of a superlative last route, and third place for her compatriot Hana Koike.
The bouldering night in Arco saw two athletes with a completely different history get the world title in boulder. The Thai Nichol Tomas, already winner of the Rock Junior, won the Youth B category and in his victory there is a piece of Italy. Tonight at the Climbing Stadium in Arco – during the IFSC Climbing Youth World Championships – the Japanese Sohta Amagasa too gave sports climbing lessons winning the Junior title in boulder. Nichol learned to climb from his father, who grew up in the “land of Manolo”, and now has a big group of climbers; his son seems to be the most promising climber: “My dream has come true! This is the best moment of my life! I have no idea how I managed to win against the Japanese, I just know it happened. The race was awesome, the blocks were perfect,” said a radiant Tomas crying. The Japanese Junta Sekiguchi was a little less happy than Tomas, also because he seemed to have already won. In third position a pleasant surprise, the Latvian Edvards Gruzitis. The winner has a special dedication: “I dedicate the victory to my father who is here and taught me everything, we have worked hard, many years of work and sacrifice at our expense, and the results can be seen. The large festive public remained in view of the Junior final, perhaps the most balanced, where the Japanese Amagasa started to “give climbing lessons”, completing every complicated ‘route’ and quickly coming to think of each solution: “I’m happy because I arrived at the top of all the blocks. This is my first and last Youth World Championship. Before the competition, I trained my fingers and my coordination”. Second place for Leo Favot and third place for Nathan Martin, both from France, while the most disappointed of the day was the English Maximillian Milne, fourth, lost among the meanders of the puzzles kindly offered by the ‘diabolical’ tracers.
In the meantime, the Rock Master Duel scheduled for the evening of 31st August is just around the corner. Garda Trentino, in collaboration with the IFSC Climbing Youth World Championships, is pleased to invite fans to a meeting with the world champion Adam Ondra – who will try to obtain his fifth title in a row at the “Duel” on Saturday – on Friday 30th August at 5 p.m. at the ‘Cantiere 26’ in Arco, next to the Climbing Stadium.
Boulder Finals – Youth B female
1 Bertone Oriane FRA; 2 Nakagawa Ryu JPN; 3 Koike Hana JPN; 4 Scarth-Johnson Angie AUS; 5 Mabboni Alessia ITA; 6 Sarinopoulos Campbell USA
Boulder Finals – Youth B male
1 Tomas Nichol THA; 2 Sekiguchi Junta JPN; 3 Gruzitis Edvards LAT; 4 Bloem Thorben Perry GER; 5 Baudrand Oscar CAN; 6 Adamovsky Adam CZE
Boulder Finals – Juniors male
1 Amagasa Sohta JPN; 2 Favot Leo FRA; 3 Martin Nathan FRA; 4 Milne Maximillian GBR; 5 Konishi Katsura JPN; 6 Wingardh Samuel SWE