After the gold medal in the lead competition, Laura Rogora wins the boulder and the combined
Speed titles for Callie Close and Hryhorii Ilchyshyn (Youth B) and Sergey Rukin (Junior)
In the boulder race Youth A, the world champions are Luce Douady (FRA) and Ao Yurikusa (JPN)
European Youth Boulder Championships from 19th to 22nd September in Brixen
Today, at the IFSC Climbing Youth World Championships in Arco, Laura Rogora achieved a historic feat, winning the bouldering gold in the Junior category – after the gold medal in the lead competition – and therefore winning also the combined title; three titles in the three different climbing disciplines, a format that we will also see at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics: “After the first two qualification rounds and the semi-final, I didn’t expect to win the final round – said Rogora – I’m in a very good shape and that’s why I had a perfect race. I dedicate the victory to my parents, who are great and always carry me around, they support me. To my coach, who has been following me for ten years, and to the ‘Polizia’, who supported me in the past year”. World silver medal for the American Natalia Grossman and bronze medal for the German Lucia Dörffel. A good performance also for the other Italian, Camilla Moroni, who finished fifth.
The morning began with the boulder finals in the Youth A female category, one of the most spectacular and balanced races. The favourites were the Japanese, but the French Douady, already bronze in the lead competition, won today’s race: “I really liked the boulder ‘routes’, I’ve never felt this way. It was wonderful. I knew I could do it, but doing it for real is a whole different story”, with just one attempt less than the Japanese Natsumi Hirano, who cheers herself up with the combined title (lead, boulder, speed). Third place for Saki Kikuchi, also thanks to the performance of the other French athlete Naile Meignan who reached the top a few seconds later.
In the early afternoon there were the speed competitions of the categories Youth B male and female and Junior male. In the Youth B competition, the Ukrainian Hryhorii Ilchyshyn (6,825 against 6,899) won ahead of the American of Eastern origin Oliver Kuang, while in the final for the third place, the talented Marco Rontini from Faenza lost against the Canadian Dylan Le.
In the Youth B female competition, Callie Close took home the title, winning over the German Nuria Brockfeld, while the French Manon Lebon – who seemed to aim at a more prestigious medal – was only third after winning over Oceana Carter.
Sergey Rukin quickly climbed the trees in a small area of Russia already at an early age. Thanks to these ‘natural’ lessons, he won in 5,835 against 5,868 of the other Russian Almaz Nagaev. It’s a pity for the “cat” Rahmad Adi Mulyono, an Indonesian who arrived third, even though he could have aspired to something more.
The day ended with the Youth A male competition. Ao Yurikusa won ahead of Hamish McArthur and Hajime Takeda, crowning a magnificent World Championship, marked by the memory of Albino Marchi, Bepi Filippi and David Lama, three important people who have given so much to the community of Arco and to the world of climbing. They were also remembered by four champions, Ondra, Schubert, Ghisolfi and Markovic, who will participate in the Duel in the evening.
The combination winners in the various categories were Sara Copar (Youth B), Junta Sekiguchi (Youth B), Hirano Natsumi (Youth A), Alberto Ginés López (Youth A), Sohta Amagasa (Junior), Laura Rogora (Junior). Many of these challenges will take place also from 19th to 22nd September in Brixen on the occasion of the European Youth Boulder Championships.
Boulder Finals – Youth A female
1 Douady Luce FRA; 2 Hirano Natsumi JPN; 3 Kikuchi Saki JPN; 4 Meignan Naile FRA; 5 Kudo Hana JPN; 6 Rauth Jana AUT
Boulder Finals -Youth A male
1 Yurikusa Ao JPN; 2 McArthur Hamish GBR; 3 Takeda Hajime JPN; 4 Jenft Paul FRA; 5 Kawamata Rei JPN; 6 Ginés López Alberto ESP
Speed Finals – Youth B female
1 Close Callie USA; 2 Brockfeld Nuria GER; 3 Lebon Manon FRA; 4 Carter Oceana USA; 5 Copar Sara SLO; 6 Ivanenko Alina RUS; 7 Noh Heeju KOR; 8 Burova Oksana UKR
Speed Finals – Youth B male
1 Ilchyshyn Hryhorii UKR; 2 Kuang Oliver USA; 3 Le Dylan CAN; 4 Rontini Marco ITA; 5 Ryzhov Maksim RUS; 6 Bryakin Yevgeniy KAZ; 7 Kim Juho KOR; 8 Desloges Thibaud FRA
Speed Finals – Junior male
1 Rukin Sergey RUS; 2 Nagaev Almaz RUS; 3 Adi Mulyono Rahmad INA; 4 Tkach Yaroslav UKR; 5 Daukaev Eduard RUS; 6 Seto Seto INA; 7 Shin Yugwan KOR; 8 Bratschi Noah USA
Boulder Finals – Junior female
1 Rogora Laura ITA; 2 Grossman Natalia USA; 3 Dörffel Lucia GER; 4 Saurel Lucile FRA; 5 Moroni Camilla ITA; 6 Repusic Urska SLO
Combined – Youth A female
1 Hirano Natsumi JPN; 2 Lotz Julia AUT; 3 Phillips Emily GBR
Combined – Youth A male
1 Ginés López Alberto ESP; 2 Yurikusa Ao JPN; 3 Takeda Hajime JPN
Combined – Youth B male
1 Sekiguchi Junta JPN; 2 Kuang Oliver USA; 3 Tomas Nichol THA
Combined – Youth B female
1 Copar Sara SLO; 2 Totkova Aleksandra BUL; 3 Noh Heeju KOR
Combined – Junior male
1 Amagasa Sohta JPN; 2 Tanaka Shuta JPN; 3 Uznik Nicolai AUT
Combined – Junior female
1 Rogora Laura ITA; 2 Grossman Natalia USA; 3 Dörffel Lucia GER